Thursday 4 October 2012

Ribadesella to Pernus about 24 kms

Ribadesella to Pernus about 24 kms
A good meal last  night set us up for a relatively easy walk today. Left at 0800 when it is still dark and headed off towards the limestone cliffs with the beach on our left. Found the first cafe at about 0915 but when the germans in front asked if they were serving coffee yet they said no!  By which time about 8 walkers had gone passed - I think it will take the Spanish economy some time to recover. Good track today through fields and next to another series of stunning beaches until we reached La Isla when the track head inland towards Sebrayu. Well marked in general until we took one indicated turn and at the next junction of unmade roads there were no sighs. So instead of walking back 300m we decided on what was the most likely way and headed off on a well made track. Followed this for about 3km as it gradually got less used. Then followed a local as he seemed to know where he was going. By now the track was very overgrown and it looked like the last vehicle down it was probably horse drawn. The man in front then abruptly turns right into what was on reflection his field! We kept on regardless and eventually the track ended in another field. At this point we got out google maps that clearly showed us on the middle of a field. Still at least we could see a track about 500m on google. So we headed off in that direction until we saw some farm buildings so we knew we must be close to a track. Next field had a donkey in it which appeared to be harmless so we headed towards a large gate in the top right hand Side of the field. Just as I was about to open the gate we notices a very quiet and very large dog about 5m from the gate! He was on a chain but we could not see how long the chain was. I tried to encourage mike to go through first to check how long the chain was but being a poor sport he refused. So walked further up to the top of the field where we could see a low wall. Unfortunately, there was an electric fences about a foot before the wall. Decided upon the engineering solution and loosened the clip on the fence to lower it to a height we could more easily step over. I gingerly stepped over the fence into the gap between it and the wall and then carefully placed my other foot onto the top of the crumbling wall. Finally got over without incident as did mike and continued on out way towards Colunga. Stopped there for a bite to eat and checked with the tourist info lady about accommodation further up the track. Did not want to go as far as Sebrayu and the other options turned out to be very limited. She advised us that there was a Casa rural about 5km further on snows asked her to check they were open and if they could provide dinner.  Answers were yes so we asked her to tell the owner we should arrive at about 1430. Got to Pernus at 1415 and stopped outside the house with the Casa rural sign on it and as this sign had the right phone number we sat down to wait for the owner. By 1445 there was no sign of anyone so decided to phone the Casa. Unfortunately, neither of us knew the country code for Spain. Texted a few people to ask. Got no response from Ian but he was probably busy and Christa said she would send it 'when I get home'! Then mike got a reply from christine - but she just asked why we wanted it!! Good job it was not an emergency. In the mean time I was looking through my 'contacts' certain there was at least one Spanish hotel listed and finally found it from a place I visited years ago. It's 0034 in case you are wondering. Called the lady and after much Spanglish found out that we were sat outside the wrong house. Owner the. Sent her husband up the road to find us. It appears that this was a common problem - pity they don't improve the sign.  Still all sorted out and now settled in a pretty little place called La Casona del Fraile ( www.casonadelfraile.com or casadealdeapernus.com). No wifi or Internet here so this will be posted later. It looks like it will be a 30km day tomorrow complete with a 400m climb as there seems to be little accommodation on the way. inin

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